[dan sharpless]

Last time I changed my tire with the bib I used the rim lock then I heard you do not need it.Just wondering what everyone else does?thanks.

[timothy souder]

dan sharpless said:

1331855376[/url]' post='113118']
Last time I changed my tire with the bib I used the rim lock then I heard you do not need it.Just wondering what everyone else does?thanks.

I've been running bibs for 10 years......I always use the locks, especially needed when the bibs get soft - actually, I have drilled second hole in front wheel directly across from 1st to use a second lock. This is when I run older bib for lower air pressure type feeling.
It is possible to roll tire over bead on a soft bib.

[des conboy]

Ive never used a rim lock with a bib and never had a problem .

[MARC GROSSMAN]

Heres the pro set-up. No rim lock up front. 1 rim lock in the rear. When my bibs get soft, I will wrap it in a tube.

[JIM AIELLO]

Bob White the former owner Tech Tubes gave me a hands on lesson on the whole procedure/concept. Regarding the front tire he said that a rim lock is not necessary. On the other hand he said that the rear is necessary. That's what I've been doing for the past 10 years. The most important thing he insisted was use plenty of lube. Friction kills these tubes. For that reason I don't use bibs on my dualsport bike. Riding on the road will force the grease out and tubes heat up. I don't change my bibs until the tire needs to be changed. So far so good.

For a trials tire or a rear knobby that is a 120/100-18 use the biggest rear bib. It's rare and hard to find but the best. Up front use the biggest there too, an M16, or you will have to add pieces after the first tire change. These tubes shrink. at first the M16 feels like 15psi. After the first tire change it is perfect. I get a season's worth of riding on a set. The worst thing about these tubes are the weight. They're heavy. friends are using tire balls now but seem too labor intensive to me.

[timothy souder]

When I started running bibs, I also used to leave the lock on the bench. As days progress and as natural events occur - like getting moisture and dirt inside of the tire, mostly the rear, but also the front, will slip, spin and move on the wheel. As the bib get worn, it will roll over the bead. This can be witnessed by noting abnormal wear on the side wall as it touches the wheel.
Consistent acceleration, braking and rotational activities cause the rubber to slip on the wheel. While some may think it is minor, I have personally seen how the front tire can be 180 degrees out from the install point - before you finish 1 lap at englishtown! we all have seen them rip stems from a tube, it is only reasonable to suspect that as a bib" has no locking ability it will also slip. This has a been a concern on performance machines for years and is also a factor to why many do not use them.
Many moons ago, I had the opportunity of assisting with a study that identified safety and performance concerns on braking when chrome wheels were installed on certain "mega" power vehicles. There were instances that, when the wheels were at certain moisture and heat levels, that caused the vehicle to pull substantially in the front when the braking system over powered the wheels ability to adhere to the rubber at 120 mph plus stops. at each and every instance of "slip", - specific concerns and decreased performance could be noted and identified. At some occurances, it would slip 100-150 mm in one single braking event!!!
I look at it in a relatively simply way, we all look at opportunities to increase performance, traction, and speed. Having a tire spin on a wheel, however minutely, during deceleration in the front or acceleration in the rear, is counter productive and can create moments of instability. it's free to reinstall a wheel lock.